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• Chinese ciggies in Laya 

There is one place in Bhutan where the Indian-made Wills cigarette has not captured the tobacco market, not even the black one. The remote gewog of Laya smokes Chinese-made cigarettes like Hongtashan, Kingsize, Huangguoshu, Lian Xia, Hong Mel, Fupongyan, Five Bulls and Mellow Turong.

Layaps just call it "tangkhu," which means tobacco - probably because of the difficulty in pronouncing the brands. The cigarettes are cheap and abundant and sneaked in from across the northern borders. Locals prefer Hongtashan, but King Size, costing Nu 80 for 20 sticks, is cheaper and more popular.

Laya smokers cannot remember since when they have been smoking, but say that Chinese cigarettes had been around in Laya for a long time - since Layaps and Tibetans across the border started trading. . . .

Others, who heard of the ban on the sale of tobacco, said that they bring in the cigarettes for their own consumption. "Everybody brings in cigarettes, so there's no point selling it," said Wangdi, who calls himself a chain smoker.

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