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KATE MOSS Model's 100-a-day cigarette habit  

Kate Moss insists on keeping 100 cigarettes nearby at all times. The supermodel - who is dating The Kills rocker Jamie Hince - loves smoking so much she reportedly makes her personal assistant leave a packet of her favourite Marlboro Lights on every table in her home before she goes to bed.

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In the Paris Métro, Even Dead Legends Can't Smoke  

Whether it's "tobacco revisionism," as critics contend, or political correctness à la française, things have just gotten tougher for smokers in France — including those who've long kicked the habit in death. Métrobus, the company that handles display advertising for the Paris Métro and SNCF rail company, says it was obliged to refuse a poster for Coco, Before Chanel because it violates a 1991 law "prohibiting all direct or indirect advertising" for tobacco or alcohol in most public venues. . .

But Chanel and Tati aren't the first historical figures with (in)famous smoking addictions to have their cigarettes posthumously confiscated. In 1996, for example, France's postal service issued a stamp of French culture and political icon André Malraux using a well-known photo of him — though only after the smoldering butt visible in his hand in the original had been removed.

And in 2005, France's National Library used a celebrated shot of Jean-Paul Sartre to advertise its "Controversies" exhibit, but first airbrushed the ubiquitous clope from between his tobacco-stained fingers. In the end, the altered picture wound up joining the other controversial photos in the exhibition, after detractors noted the irony of the library's effort to erase that ever-present existential detail from the philosopher's life. . . .

Despite the gnashing of teeth all this tampering has prompted, the debate is sure to continue. After all, British director Guy Ritchie will presumably have to feature a pipe in ads for his upcoming movie about Sherlock Holmes, due out in France next year. And promising to be even more inflammatory, marketing will soon start on French director Joann Sfar's film about late French signer Serge Gainsbourg, a pop hero whose bad boy image was built on lavish public displays of tobacco and alcohol abuse. Good luck banning that.

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SAMUEL: Whiff of Kafka to Coco Chanel smoking poster ban  

It has always struck me in France how wide the extremes are between those with a total disregard for rules and those who apply them to Kafkaesque levels. Here we are approaching Kafka over the implementation of a tobacco advertising law banning the "direct or indirect" promotion of smoking. It's as if there is deep fear than any exception to the rule might bring the entire edifice crashing down.

Coco Chanel smoked 50 cigarettes a day. It is almost impossible to find a photo of her without one in her hand or mouth. The original poster for a new film out today on called Coco Before Chanel - which by the way, features in magazines and billboards outside public transport - perfectly projects the fashion legend's androgynous sensuality, fag in hand and in silk pyjamas.

But Metrobus, which runs advertising on Paris' trains and buses, chose to ban it and forced the producers to provide an insipid alternative of her standing next to the male lead. . . .

Libé has once again been vocally lambasting the Tati airbrushing, mockingly wondering why the authorities didn't take offence to the fact that he is not wearing a helmet, is riding an old-fashioned, polluting vehicle and that the small boy riding behind him is not seated securely.

"Why not go all the way?" it asked. It has a point.

All this is, of course, great publicity for the Tati retrospective and the Chanel film,

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Paris bans posters of Coco Chanel star smoking  

The transport authority's decision to remove the posters because they were "unhealthy and inappropriate" was condemned as "ridiculous" by Chanel fans and even by the man who drew up France's draconian anti-smoking laws.

The posters show Tautou as the chain-smoking French creator of the little black dress gazing sensuously at the camera in silk pyjamas, with a cigarette smouldering in her right hand. . . .

The ban comes days after a poster of Jacques Tati, one of France's most enduring comic characters, was altered to conform to French rules prohibiting the "direct or indirect" promotion of tobacco products. The actor-director's trademark pipe was replaced with a yellow windmill - a move which one cinema expert said would have made him "die laughing".

Roselyne Bachelot, the health minister, admitted that the rules were being taken too far. "We're getting pretty ridiculous with this," she said.

Even Claude Evin, the politician behind a 1991 anti-smoking law, said the ban should not extend to "cultural heritage".

There is already concern that another film due out later this year about Serge Gainsbourg, the Gauloise-puffing crooner, will fall foul of the no smoking rules. One of his songs is entitled God smokes Havana cigars.

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Fashion Diary - The Variety Show After the Shows 

"THESE people are so desperate for anything exclusive that they'll end up in a broom cupboard or a toilet somewhere and no one is allowed in," said Jamie Hince, the lead singer of the Kills, at Fendi's private concert on Wednesday featuring the Gossip.

Mr. Hince was seated in the V.I.P. balcony of a club on the Right Bank called the V.I.P. Room . . .

So there on Wednesday was Mr. Hince's girlfriend, Kate Moss, entertaining some of her uncountable admirers as she alternated drags on a bummed Marlboro and sips of Champagne; and the almost girlishly pretty, chain-smoking LVMH scion, Antoine Arnault; and the ruddy Amazonian American model Angela Lindvall. There was Hilary Alexander, the fashion director for The Daily Telegraph in England, puffing on her own cigarette . . .

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Fashion Diary - The Variety Show After the Shows  

Mr. Hince was seated in the V.I.P. balcony of a club on the Right Bank called the V.I.P. Room, and down the banquette from him were a variety of specially invited guests who, if they were not in fact Very Important, gave every impression of thinking otherwise.

It was an illogically impressive bunch gathered at the end of an illogically impressive season, when the people who make fashion, faced in many cases with their own imminent disappearance, seemed to have concluded that if the ship appears to be sinking, the best thing to do is to ask the band to play louder and dance till the end.

So there on Wednesday was Mr. Hince's girlfriend, Kate Moss, entertaining some of her uncountable admirers as she alternated drags on a bummed Marlboro and sips of Champagne; and the almost girlishly pretty, chain-smoking LVMH scion, Antoine Arnault; and the ruddy Amazonian American model Angela Lindvall. There was Hilary Alexander, the fashion director for The Daily Telegraph in England, puffing on her own cigarette and regaling a listener with tales of a fashion show that preceded the Fendi soiree.

"IT was one of John's best," said Ms. Alexander, referring to the John Galliano show earlier that evening, held at an indoor parking garage not far from the Seine. . . .

The cigarette smoke drifting through the V.I.P. club was so thick, it banked in places like a weather front. Nobody minded in the least. In part their laissez-aller tolerance was attributable to the zinc buckets inset in tables all over the club that each held ice and chilled bottles of Belvedere vodka and Ruinart Brut.

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Banks - Scars, Attitude Part of 'Top Model' Beauty 

Tyra Banks, with a lively rush of words, describes a photo session featured in the season debut of ''America's Next Top Model.''

In the shoot dubbed ''Return to Innocence,'' the CW reality series' aspiring models are depicted playing ''games that young girls played back in the day -- dodge-ball, jacks, double-Dutch jump-rope,'' Banks said.

But the 13 women are posed to look anything but pure.

''There's a girl smoking. A girl from the wrong side of good,'' Banks said. It's part of the TV producer and talk-show host's campaign against what she considers pop culture's harmful messages for girls.

Banks said she created ''America's Next Top Model,'' back with a two-hour episode at 8 p.m. EST Wednesday, to counter stereotypes of who and what is considered beautiful.

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Front Row - Some Fashion Week Events Open to the Public  

some designers are planning events for the week that are open to the public and, in some cases, possibly more interesting than anything happening on a catwalk.

Theodoric Bland Willoughby, who goes by Teddy and calls his collection Bland (it's both his middle name and kind of funny), is organizing a weeklong installation at the Asia Song Society, where a band of merry fashion makers will display and sell small objects. Mr. Willoughby is bringing a fresh batch of his provocatively wicked cigarette pins ($30 and up), which look like cigarettes burned halfway down with the ash intact.

The pop-up store, at 45 Canal Street, from Feb. 14 to 20

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From cigarette butt to fashion statement  

That hat you see to the right is smokin'. No, it literally is. Chilean fashion designer Alexandra Guerrero made it from recycled cigarette butts.

Through her new company, Mantis, Guerrero combines purified smokes with natural wool to form a raw, textured material that can be woven into garments with a surprisingly appealing modern macrame flair.

Of course, as cute as the finished products may be, it's hard to imagine nonsmokers wearing Guerrero's creations without experiencing a significant ick factor. . . .

The clothes can be purchased via e-mail from the Mantis Web site and range in price from $50 for a hat to $125 for a sweater.

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Smokes alarm as fashion outlets targeted 

CIGARETTES are being sold at high-end Adelaide clothing stores and at least one hair salon, in a "tricky and desperate" tactic to lure new young smokers.

A Sunday Mail investigation has discovered smoke company Imperial Tobacco is lavishing trendy stores with cash incentives and corporate entertainment in return for stocking Peter Stuyvesant brand cigarettes in specially designed cigarette dispensers.

They sell from $9.95 to $11.70 for a pack of 20 cigarettes.

The tobacco giant's targeting of fashion-savvy outlets to push the trendy brand has prompted calls for a State Government crackdown to ban the practice.

Marketing kits distributed by the tobacco giant to fashion retailers describe cigarettes as being safe and fashionable: "It used to be extremely dangerous. Now the only danger is you're not the coolest cat on the block."

Quit SA and Independent Senator Nick Xenophon are appalled

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• Cigarette push stubbed out 

CIGARETTE giant Imperial Tobacco has dramatically pulled its products from Adelaide fashion stores after the brazen tactic to ensnare young smokers was exposed.

In what has been labelled a "grovelling backdown", the tobacco company announced it would have all cigarettes out of boutiques by January 31.

It also denied that its own promotional material suggested smoking was safe and cool.

Last week, the Sunday Mail revealed Imperial Tobacco was pushing its Peter Stuyvesant brand through high-end fashion stores and even a city hairdresser.

A week of dramatic fall-out following the Sunday Mail's investigation included:

AN admission by the tobacco company that "no cigarette is safe".

A PUSH for the Australian Competition and Consumer Commission to investigate the company over its marketing campaign.

A STATE Government move to make selling cigarettes in fashion stores illegal.

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• Imperial Tobacco offers cash incentives for fashion outlets to sell Peter Stuyvesant cigarettes  

CIGARETTES are being sold at high-end clothing stores and hair salons, in a "tricky and desperate" tactic to lure new young smokers.

A Sunday Mail investigation has discovered smoke company Imperial Tobacco is lavishing trendy Adelaide stores with cash incentives and corporate entertainment in return for stocking Peter Stuyvesant brand cigarettes in specially designed cigarette dispensers.

Marketing kits distributed by the tobacco giant to fashion retailers describe cigarettes as being safe and fashionable: "It used to be extremely dangerous. Now the only danger is you're not the coolest cat on the block."

The tobacco giant's targeting of fashion-savvy outlets to push the trendy brand has prompted calls for a State Government crackdown to ban the practice. . . .

".

In the wake of the Sunday Mail investigation, SA Substance Abuse Minister Jane Lomax-Smith ordered a report into the laws on the sale of cigarettes through these outlets.

The investigation discovered:

CASH incentives of up to $2000 a year are offered to stores agreeing to sell cigarettes.

SMOKING is promoted as safe and cool in literature given to targeted fashion outlets.

FREE cigarettes are handed out to stockists.

BOOZY lunches and even a swish cruise have been held for businesses which sell the brand.

The Sunday Mail has confirmed at least six hip outlets - including Glenelg clothing store Zero, city boutique Whistles and CBD hair salon Gang - have started stocking the cigarettes, nicknamed "Stuyvies".

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It used to be extremely dangerous. Now the only danger is you're not the coolest cat on the block.
Marketing kits distributed to fashion outlets in Australia by Imperial Tobacco.

She Fine-Tuned the Forks of the Richan Vulgars  

“She must not swing her arms as though they were dangling ropes,” Emily Post wrote about a young bride in one of the ubiquitous editions of her etiquette books. “She must not shout; and she must not, while wearing her bridal veil, smoke a cigarette.” . . .

In 1927 the 1922 chapter on “The Chaperone and Other Conventions” was replaced with “The Vanishing Chaperone and Other Lost Conventions,” which gave way eventually to “The Vanished Chaperone.” Men no longer had to pay the check; unmarried girls over 18 could go out with men unchaperoned and have dinner in their apartments. They could also smoke.

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32. Etiquette in Business and Politics. Post, Emily. 1922. Etiquette 

ETIQUETTE IN SMOKING

The above does not mean that a gentleman may never smoke in the presence of ladies—especially in the presence of those who smoke themselves—but a gentleman should not smoke under the following circumstances: When walking on the street with a lady. When lifting his hat or bowing. In a room, an office, or an elevator, when a lady enters. In any short conversation where he is standing near, or talking with a lady. 4 If he is seated himself for a conversation with a lady on a veranda, in an hotel, in a private house, anywhere where “smoking is permitted,” he first asks, “Do you mind if I smoke?” And if she replies, “Not at all” or “Do, by all means,” it is then proper for him to do so. He should, however, take his cigar, pipe, or cigarette, out of his mouth while he is speaking. One who is very adroit can say a word or two without an unpleasant grimace, but one should not talk with one’s mouth either full of food or barricaded with tobacco. 5

In the country, a gentleman may walk with a lady and smoke at the same time—especially a pipe or cigarette. Why a cigar is less admissible is hard to determine, unless a pipe somehow belongs to the country. A gentleman in golf or country clothes with a pipe in his mouth and a dog at his heels suggests a picture fitting to the scene; while a cigar seems as out of place as a cutaway coat. A pipe on the street in a city, on the other hand, is less appropriate than a cigar in the country. In any event he will, of course, ask his companion’s permission to smoke.

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